Josefov (nowadays a part of Jaromer) is a fortress built to defend the Bohemian realm against potential Prussian invaders. These days the fortress is regularly invaded by fiercely dressed metalheads. For the second time, we participated in this invasion and made it our first big stop on this trip. Four days we spent between the brick walls of this fortification and enjoyed little rain, some beer and a lot of good music.

Eventually we both felt the urgent need to pack up the tent, twist a throttle and get going again. We set off heading south towards Slovakia. A fairly uneventful ride over well maintained roads had us cross some 200 km in no time. As we came closer to "Camp Sport" - our stop for the night - the landscape improved remarkably. More hills, more trees, less motorway; a taster of things to come.

The campsite itself did little to explain its name or hide its age. Everything seemed older Ioana, Chris or our both's age combined. Having a shower turned into a trip down history lane.

After we set up camp, we decided to walk into the city center. Radhostem is an interesting, but also touristic place. Home to one of the oldest open-air museums of Walachian wooden architecture it is a place well worth visiting. Spread out over several kilometers visitors find original and restored structures dating centuries ago. Unfortunately for us we were entirely impervious to all this magnificence prior to our arrival, and thus arrived when it all was closed and the sun was setting.

Remorse for our late arrival and subsequent plans to revisit this place notwithstanding, we carried on to find something every 30 year old kid wants: ice-cream. The last place in town to sell this frozen sugary product was located on the picturesque city square. All day we had found beautiful village centres, and this one was no exception (it seems that Czech city planning starts with a gorgeous city center and builds houses of diminishing beauty the further away they are).

All in all, a good last impression of the Czech Republic, a place we well definitely come back to. Very friendly people, gorgeous landscape, charm and good roads make this a motorcycle-travelers paradise. If this country is not yet on your bucket list, you might want to rethink that.